Birthday exhaustion
What a birthday and what a week its been. From entertaining clients on Friday, to a big fancy, adulturous birthday of a friend on Saturday, to more eat eat eat on Sunday to Dinner, drinks and drama on Monday to finally one last bash on Tuesday. I had flowers and ballons delivered to me at work and decorated all over the apartment. What did I get? an Imac....I'm pretty excited..this changes everything!
Musical Interlude
ME: "
If I told you things I did before,
Told you who I used to be,
Would you go along with someone like me?
If you knew my story word for word,
Had all of my History,
Would you go along with someone like me?"SHE: "Heard it before and had my share,
It didn't lead nowhere;
I would go along with someone like you
It doesn't matter what you did,
who you were hanging with;
We could stick around and see this night through."nicely said
ahh.....Swedish pop.....perfect for those cold winter days. How do these people write such....upbeat music? Cardigans? Abba? Peter Bjorn and John? Must be something in the water.....
The Return of Love, Cup that is
Its been 5 months since I've last been to Il Mulino. Many of you who've visited have been to the Italian Master resturant that Pete owns in the Moscow Mega Rich suburbs. I used to go to this place all the time, and well, I have to hold it responsible for some of my weight gain over the last 2 years. But tonight, I brought Sasha there for the first time and tried to share one more special Moscow hideaway with her.
The outdoor summer terrace was all shut down with a Xmas Yolka (Tree) fully decorated. Looking outside I had flashback of Yasir and Julie eating outside with Russian government officials at the next table. Then I was thinking about all those taste testing/menu nights we used to have. But it all feels like a life time ago. Differnt times for different people.
But now, there is no need to write such unhappy (woe is me thoughts) cause lately I'm happeir that I've ever been. My health is in check, my life seem to be a lot less chaotic, and most importantly, I'm in love with an amazing woman. Its feel differnt, it feels loving, and more important, it just feels so right. Sasha and I have many things on our plates, plans to be made, and acomplishments that we wish to achieve, but I think we're going to work it all out. Its not usual for me to be so....optomistic. I guess with age comes perspective......and with this perspective has come some sweet things to smile about.
So to celebrate, I offer to order everyone an Il Mulino Love cup. Moscow is nice this winter, so come join us for this tasty treat...its on me. I know its huge, but we only live once. Dig in, savor each moment, and worry about the aftertastes later.
48 Hours
I'm laying in bed, its cold and of course its Moscow and I'm looking at photos of me and my sister's trip to Egypt. in 2005. Egypt also happens to be one of the few places Russians can go and get a visa on the spot. Why not.....and why not now! So within a matter of days, me and Sasha were on our ways to a quick 48 hours of sand, sun, pryamids, and fun in Egypt.
Sasha has never been to Cairo or Egypt before so this was extra special for her. We arrived in Cairo late night on Friday and checking into our hotel at 2am. We then hired a car and went all over the city. Our first stop was, of course, the pryamids of Giza. They looked huge, magestic, and dark because they are not lit up at all a night. I forced Sasha to squint and try to make out the silloette of the Sphinx. In the end, we took a "magical" horse ride around a parking lot and saw the great wonders of the world in a way most people don't. Afterwards we went to an Egpytian Cafe at the Hanna Halili market and drank tea at 4am. We did get back to our Cairo hotel, enough time to shower, sleep for 30 min, and barely catch our flight to Hurghada.
Hurghada complex was just......paradice. We had our own private suite right on the beach, with our own back yard patio and private sun area. So what if we didn't sleep for 48 hours....we got our sun clothes on and just layed happily in the sun together. We ate well, relaxed and just felt the warmth of the sun on our faces.
The hotel was nice, and the service and spa was amazing, but I'll always remember just how much fun we had and how we got to spend time talking about things we are too busy to normally talk about. So much I learned and so much I felt and did, and all in 48 hours......the weekend.....don't ever let it go to waste.
Chicago
"Chicago: City of tall buildings,Corn, Cows, Midwesterns, black market babies" Oh the comedy of it all.
This Thanksgiving, I was blessed with a visit from Chad. He flew in with a promise by me of a feast he would never forget. Instead he was forced to cook thanksgiving dinner with me and lose sleep editing with me a tiny documentry on the city we call home.
For those of you who've seen the movie, yeah, I have no idea why I'm cursing so much in it. Its great though to capture the fun that me and Chad have had over the years and to actually be able to play it for people who havn't seen this place. Also me and Chad havn't worked on a project together since the coffee table sex movie which will never hit the light of day. Although, I assume one day Chad and I will get whipped up enough to show this embaressing romp to our friends.
I miss Chicago sometimes...it's nice to be back home....but my mind and heart is elsewhere lately....
The Culinary Underbelly unite
Anthony Bourdain, master NYC chef and author of Kitchen Confidential was taping in Moscow this weekend. I first read his book in 2001 when it first came out. I bought it in London after Claire, who heard all my stories from the Italian Resturant, told me that I would probably love the book. She was right. I was entertained by the drunks, sneak theives, sluts and psychopaths Mr Bourdain wrote elloquently about and felt that he was telling stories strought from my London/US expereinces.
Walking in Red Square with Karla, I was happy to bump into and meet Mr. Bourdain who has since become a TV star. He has this travel/cooking show on the food network in the US and also has this sitcom called Kitchen Confidential that is losely inspired by his work. He was taping a moscow segment with his colleague who I remember from his St. Pete segment last year. I met the man, shook his hand, told him that his book made me smile, and how NY rules. The punk rock looking chef smiled and posed for the fan picture. Who knows who you'll run into when you are walking around town sometimes.
Oh, and BTW, I never ate Resturant rish on Monday in NY. Thanks for this tip AB. Too bad I never ate at Les Halles. I love French food.
Birthday Vodka and Breakfast Dance
"Dun na na na nah na na na, they say its your brithday" - McCartney
Olga from the famous Juan and Olga posse had her birthday bash in Moscow and with my old mate Karla in Town, I decided to drag her along to the festivities. The night started out with drinks and the American Bar/Grill in Mayakovskaya where I gave the birthday girl the ever popular bottle of Bailys liquer for her brithday. Whats a girl without her Bailys.......As usual, the Molly's gang were out at the bar with wish Juan's better half a very happy birthday.
We left the party early with promises to meet up again to have dinner. I took Karla to Cafe Pushkin to have the standard "I'm a Russian tourist" meal....beef stroganauff and cranberry Vodka. We got nice and toasty of vodka and wine at dinner...we were at the place for a good 3 hours. We then took a drive around town and ended up at MGU, overlooking the city at night. It was 1:30 am and we were tired, but we decided to push on and go to the Vodka Bar and meet up with the birthday gang again. If I was feeling lazy.....boy would things be differnt now.....but I'm getting ahead of myself...
We show up (Karla and I) at Vodka bar and the party is in full force. Olga (wearing a red and white stripped top) was easily on her way to drunkardville and her friends were happy to join her. I rushed to the bar to get a tasty tequilla and the start the disco dancing. Out of the blue, a spritely blonde Alexandra (Sasha) came out of nowhere to join our night out. I met Sasha in 2005 on the first night I met Juan and Olga. She works on the trading desk of a competitor investment bank, and we've ran into each other a few times throught the years. I can't explain why we never met up more often since we had many things in common.....I always heard stories from Olga about how Sasha was in Turkey, involved with one romance, and then off to London and having adventures out there. But here, at this joyus spot, we had our reunion and that ment one thing.....more tequilla.
The party raged on, and this plastic man continued to boogie on the dance floor. To be honest, that night, I think I drank the most I've done that whole summer. It was fun and freeing. Usually I am aways Mr. Responsible, but everyone I was with that night were more responsible than me...so I threw caution to the wind and went nuts. The dancers were shaking about, the bartender pouring tequillas after tequillas, and I kept harassing Sasha about her Turkish delights (although she kept wondering what I was going on about). Karla was shocked at the grandious nature of Moscow night life. But all in all she had a great time.
We left the club around 4:30am and I was fueled up like a jetplane. Sasha, being the star that she is, took control and invited us to go have breakfast at "The Nights of the Bous zwa zee"...this crazy after hours place where Dj's are still spinning records at ear spliting levels while patrons are dancing and eating breakfast omlets. Eat your heart out Denny's.
At 6am we managed our way back home, and I happily became reunited with a true star of Moscow....I even managed to get her number this time...what's next? we don't know...but here we go...
Scott's Wedding
JULY 1ST 2006What can a summer be without a wedding....and what can a wedding me without me standing up and making a fool of myself while giving a speech. But as my readers may remember, I was asked and honoured last fall by Scott to be his best man and there was no way I was going to let him down. With July 1st marked on my calander for at least 6 months, I was ready to fly from Moscow and participate in his beautiful day....but of course I had to make it to the wedding first.
North Carolina, I love the place. I always manage to go at least once every year (esp during the summer) and make my way to the beaches. This time around instead of going to my favorite Wilmington NC (home of Cape fear and D. Creek), I finanly made it out to the outer banks. Outerbanks is where Kitty Hawk (home to where the wright brothers made their first flight) is...but more importantly, its an arcepelago of islands right in the Atlantic ocean. On these islands or miles and miles of coast line and beach houses. There are tons of 'fun in the sun' type resturants and activities. I've always wanted to rent a house on the water here for part of the summer with my friends.....It just seems like the perfect place to swim, read, relax and detox from urban life.
Of Course, being in North Carolina means that you are in the South. The home of megachurches and the place where Jesus is your co-pilot. Every 500 meters you'd see one church and then another, each showing the world just how devout they were. What was funny usually is that in-between these churches you'd see either pick-up bars and sometimes stript clubs...to just even out the cosmic ying/yang of it all. Another thing the south is known for is the food....friend chicken, hush puppies, grits and gravey, food that tastes like sin....no wonder there are so many churches.
After the long road trip down and through the beaches, I made it JUST in time for the rehearsal. Luckly Mitch and Sarah (who got married the same weekend John got married in May) were there and were anxious to greet us. Scott looked like the happiest man on the planet and I was so glad to make it in time to represent him on this day. His whole family has never met me and most the people in the wedding party only heard of this "Guy from Russia" was on his way in.
The Wedding itself was small and amazing. It took place outside,on the steps of this old hotel in Durham. Everythign was colour schemed in red and white. I even got to wear the wedding ring BEFORE Robyn got to wear it during the ceremony! Alchohol was pouring, music was playing and the small family affair was in full swing. Then came my speech....I decided to just wing it. When I stress about these speeches, they come across as unnatural and strange, but in reality...I'm being asked to talk about my good friends...and what should be easy...cause lord knows I have tons of dirt on all of them.
The speech was a hit...even the priest was laughing, esp at all the hints that me and Scott were Gay lovers.....well....maybe he was laughing a bit too hard on that jokes. But it was a great way to end the night and to end my holidays in the US. Another one bites the dust, another friend walks down that glorious path of couplehood, and another family is born.
All is full of Love
MAY 21st, 2006
"Wow, John Kwag is getting married!" This thought kept repeating in my head that whole day. John, the strange friend, every girls best friend, the bubble man, mr long term student, mr giggles, mr nice-guy....he finally got the girl, his partner and it making a go at it. I could not have been more happy. And I never felt more special being apart of something so personal.
Sitting there, at table 1 with only the family, we watched the whole procession
"Granted it was all in Korean but it was still a specticle. There was a live string section, an amazing slide show on the big screen showing their lives and their love, and of course the whole shabang in korean with multiple costume changes and multiple wedding cakes. There was even heart shaped butter. Yes, everything was thought all the way thru. Everything in its right place.
Speech time. I had notes scribbled from the last few days. I had many different ideas on how to honour kwag. Do I do a Bono and use lyrics and induct my bro into the hall of fame?
" no...too lame. As dramatic and emotional I wanted to speech to be, it just wasn't going to ever fly over well because out of the 160 guest at the ceremony, only 12 or so spoke ENGLISH! But it was for John. This speech, this honour was for his laughter, his moment in the sun. The only comment from the speech that was very rememberable was the story of John cracking eggs on his head in school to win class president. Even the priest after my speech asked John is the story was true. Mr. Kwag was sure a star at Seoul International School.
When this ceremony was over, another private, family only ceremony was about to begin upstairs.
" At first me and Ksenia didn't know if we should attend or not. But John's mother insisted on our attendence and we were again honoured to see such an event. Basically the couple takes turns bowing to each member of the extended family and in return they may get "rewarded" in some way. They also had to do yet another costume change for this ceremony. They looked just like those Korea dolls in my parents living room. It was amazing. We sat there in awe in the kids section and waited for everyone to have their turn. When it was over, it was 4pm, exactly 3 hour after the whole day started.
We were glowing afterwards. Such a happy day, for such wonderful people. We all couldn't stop smiling. John was looking forward to his honeymoon which started the that evening, and me and Ksenia were about to start our own independent adventure in Asia. We all took some photos considering how amazing we all looked and then quickly changed to go experience "The land of the morning calm"
What was next? Like usual a non-stop adventure. Seoul Tower, Ill-attempted boat ride, Apkujung, Jazz club, argument, nam dae mun,
" Seoul Palace and than back to the hotel again for one last late night discussion and than sleep. We knew that in a few hours time a private mini-van will be waiting downstairs to take us 5 hours south to the amazing old kingdom of Gwangjeu. A place to see the past, enter the buddah world, and make peace with ones self.
A Time for Seouls and Mates
MAY 17th, 2006
I wake up in the mornings and check my pockets and look in the mirror to notice two facts just staring directly at me. I'm getting old and my friends are getting married. Those tuxedo rentals do add up. Slowly but surely this is the way our lives are heading. But these are things I guess we should be embracing rather than fearing. Esp the friends getting married part.
But what makes this story even more unique is the fact that it involved John H. Kwag. My best bud from years back, the only man I can honestly say I've known since I was 13. He asked me to be his best man at his wedding in South Korea this may. It was my honour to pay tribute to someone whose had such an impact on my life. But of course, how can you write a speech about someone and more importantly about our friendship when there is so much time and unmentionable stories between the pair. Of course, i did what i always do, I winged it.
What made this trip back to my old stomping grounds so special is that John specifically invited the recent star of my exhaustive, dramatic adventure, Ksenia, to the festivities. She of course was not only intrigued by the bright lights of Asia, but also was dying to see me make a fool of myself in front of hundreds of Korea wedding guests. No matter what the reason, her company mixed with our ever implusive chemistry made this trip one we will both remember fondly.
I show up early, on a Thursday to get the groundwork going on the trip. We stay at the Hyatt hotel Namsan which is right across the street from the NamSan apartments I used to live in.
They've torn down the NamSan apartments and looking at the sight where my home used to be was very disturbing....even more so was the fact that my hotel room was overlooking my old home during the whole trip.
I met up with John and his future was Je Hyun in Itaewon to plan out the next couple of days. We had to talk about my role in the wedding, our lives in general, and of course the friday night bachelor party. Of course as one who follows the code of manhood, I'm not going to diverge details of this night....but lets just say it was unforgetible in its own tragic kazmi/kwagster way. In fact every one of these I've ever thrown are stories in their own right.
Ksenia arrived on Saturday and I went to the airport to pick her up. We managed our way back to the hotel in the Korean humitidy and she quickly passed out from the long 9 hour flight. Kwag, his wife and I rehersed the wedding, ate, relaxed, and waited for our Russian guest to wake up before we went out shopping.
We went to the Lotte department store in Myongdong first and shopped our hearts out. Afterwards we went to a traditional Korean old style resturant to try all the delacacies Korea had to offer.
I was later told that there was dog meat on the menu but luckly no one offered this to us. We discovered this amazing rasberry Korea drink that prompted us to buy bottles of the stuff at the airport. After many frantic calls from their parents on being out so late the night before their wedding, we concluded the evening at the resturant and looked forward to tomorrow's wedding. What was amazing is that this was the day before their marriage and the happy couple spent all their free time with us. I'm lucky to have such great friends.
Our evening did not stop as the jet lagged, buzzed emotions of being in such a strange place led us to continue on that night. We explored our strange hotel with its sweeping night views and felt like we were acting out a scene in the movie "Lost in Translation". We went to J.J. Mahoneys, a famous hangout from my old days, and saw huge display of pink poodles stuffed animals. But the highlight of the post dinenr party was stumbling upon a No-rae-bong club or private Kareyoke bar. Being 'intoxicated' with the moment we rushed into one of those rooms, ordered our poisons and sang out hearts out for 2.5 hours.
The songlist was a mixture of terrible sappy pop songs, and modern alternative classics from the 90's. There was this amazing rendition of Losing My Religion that was done by my squirrily friend. It was so impressive and sanguine that i demanded a repeat preformance. "That's me in the corner.......Thats me in the spot light...........losing my religion" Blasphomy never sounded so.....russki
After closing down the bar, and ending the perfect evening, we rushed back to catch a few hours of sleep before the frantic day ahead.
